Danube - September 2017

Danube Tour

As the date for the Danube trip approached there were more rides trying to replicate what would be expected for those who had not done a multi-day ride before. Finally on Monday 4th September we flew to Munich in two groups, David and Sue from Heathrow on BA and Linda, Lin, Sue, Mick, Brian, Ray and I on Easyjet from Gatwick later in the day. From the airport we took the local city bus to Freising where we were staying overnight at the Bayerischer Hof, a traditional German hotel - if you are over that way it is thoroughly recommended.

Tuesday 5th September

In the morning after breakfast the late arrivals had a quick sightseeing tour of Freising [David and Sue had seen it the previous afternoon] before heading for the railway station to catch the 10:48 train. The original intention was to catch an earlier train, but due to works on the line this involved a bus ride around the rail works with short transfer times that we did not want to risk. As it happens I was able to book a group ticket in advance for only €9 each that involved changing at Plattling to the faster ICE service and reduced the journey time slightly although this arrived about 40 minutes after our original intention. We arrived in Passau on time at 12:39 and went to the bike hire office adjacent to the platform to find that it closed at 12:00 and did not open again until 15:00 - so frustrating! As we had our bags we did not want to travel far into the centre of town, so we had lunch at the station cafe, sitting outside on the platform. As we were going to be late in arriving at the hotel, I emailed them saying we would arrive between 18:00 and 19:00 and booked a table for dinner for the nine of us [dinner service was due to finish at 20:00].

When the guy eventually turned up minutes before 15:00, we tried to sort out the bikes, panniers and luggage as quickly as possible. Despite the bikes being shown as different ladies and men's bikes, they were all unisex ones in the different sizes. After adjusting the bikes, fitting the panniers and a trial ride on the platform we were eventually ready for the off at 15:50 for the 21 mile ride to the hotel in Neideranna.Passau Station - hire bikes collected and just about to start the ride Because of the time, we opted for a fairly direct route through Passau to the bridge rather than walking the bikes through pedestrianised centre zone sightseeing and pressed on. This took us through the rough cobbled streets in the Aldstat [Old Town], the highest point in Passau before dropping back to river level. The pedestrian/cycle bridge over the Danube was being repaired and we had to push the bikes across a narrow section of footpath. Once on the other side, the route followed the combined foot and cycle path beside the river. After 3 miles we stopped at a Lidl to stock up on water and ice creams before continuing. At about halfway, at Oberenzell, the cycle path turned away from the main road and onto quiet roads towards Jochenstein and past the dam across the Danube. On the outskirts of Neideranna, the path joined the road through the village climbing up a bit before descending to the hotel and arriving at 18:15.

The Garmin gave a distance of 20.7 miles, 464 ft of ascent and 528 ft of descent for the day's ride. After locking the bikes in the bike store with loads of others, we quickly got cleaned up, changed and met up for a drink on the terrace before dinner at 19:00. The hotel is a traditional small Austrian hotel located immediately beside the Danube with its own restaurant serving local dishes. The wine flowed and we had a very good meal together - obviously we were not going to lose much weight this week.

Wednesday 6th September

In the morning we met for breakfast looking out at the clouds and the mist on the hills - the forecast was for thunderstorms during the day, the only day with rain forecast. After checking out, we loaded the bikes and headed off at 9:10 after a group photo in front of the hotel. Hotel Draxler, Neideranna - setting off in the morningThe route was now on a dedicated cycle path as it followed the river to the ferry crossing at Schlogen. Mick, Lin and Brian were riding well ahead and due to a misunderstanding went past the first ferry at the Schlogen Loop and took the second ferry whilst the rest of us caught the first one - this had a better viewpoint of the river loop from the far bank. Ferry across the DanubeSchlogen Loop after crossing by ferryWe met up again and continued the short distance to Inzell where we were going to cross back to the north bank on the ferry - but it was not running and so we continued on the south bank as the path wended its level way through the woods on the steep valley sides to where we would have crossed to this bank again at Untermuhl. There was a small hotel there so we stopped for coffee and strudel on the terrace. Coffee and strudel stop at UntermuhlRefreshed, we set off again on the path beside the river. Just past the Ottensheim Hydro Power station the path diverts inland on a road through the woods coming out at the Ottensheim Ferry crossing - a cable guided ferry across the rapidly flowing river at this point. The skies darkened as we crossed and we just had time to cycle up the hill into Ottensheim before the rain started in earnest. As it was lunchtime we sat in the cafe and had sandwiches [and more cake] watching the rain fall. But by the time we had finished lunch the rain had stopped and we were able to continue in the dry.

The cycle path went through a series of underpasses and ramps as it crossed the main road three times before running on the path immediately adjacent to the main road for about 5 miles to the outskirts of Linz and another underpass to bring us alongside the river again and up to the main bridge crossing into the centre of Linz. There was a narrow cycle path adjacent to the busy crossing that took us into the main square and then onto the main road to the station. This road is closed to all except the trams and bikes for about 0.5 miles and opted to push our bikes along the busy footpath to avoid riding close to the tram rails. This brought us to the Volksgarten [public park] that we rode through and then joined the dedicated cycle path to the station. We were staying at the Ibis opposite, arriving at 16:00. The Garmin gave a distance of 39.5 miles, 1576 ft of ascent and 1660 ft of descent for the day's ride.At Ibis Hotel in Linz

We checked in, stored our bikes inside the hotel, got showered and changed and then walked into the town. We did a bit of sightseeing and then stopped for a drink at a pavement cafe/bar. Just as well we were sheltered under a parasol as there was a brief sharp shower. We then headed for a restaurant we had chosen, only to find that it was probably the most popular place in Linz and we should have booked more than two weeks before to have any chance of a table. A bit dispirited, we looked at some restaurants as we headed back to the Ibis but none appealed - it looked as if we would have to settle for the Ibis restaurant. About 200m from the Ibis I spotted an Italian restaurant, so we headed in and they could accommodate the nine of us - it was definitely up-market and we had a good if expensive meal.

Thursday 7th September

After breakfast in the Ibis we assembled outside at 9:10 and then took a different route to the bridge through the Aldstat. This brought us out on the south bank, but below the bridge so there was a ramp up to bridge level to cross to the north bank again. The first part of the day's ride was through the parks then onto the top of the flood embankment that continued for about 10 miles before diverting onto the realtively quiet roads of Georgen, Gusen and Langenstein. At this point I had intended to visit the Mauthausen Concentration Camp with those who did not fancy the 3 mile 14% climb riding to the next cafe and waiting there. However there was not enough interest, so we carried on and stopped for coffee [they had no cake!] in Mauthausen.

The path from there ran close to the Danube with a little diversion to cross the River Aist. Shortly after the path passed the marina at Au that had a cafe but this seemed to be closed as we cycled by. After another couple of miles we stopped at a signboard and could see that there would not be many options for a lunch stop without either going back or diverting considerably off the route. So we decided to carry on to arrive at the hotel early then go out again to visit Grein. The path followed close to the Danube on the flood embankment for another six miles before diverting inland around the flood defences around Mitterkirchen on quiet local roads before returning to the side of the river. The hotel, Gasthof zur Donaubrucke, was on the other bank of the river beside the next main road bridge with steep ramps from path level.

We checked into the hotel, booked a table for the evening and dropped our bags off before we rode back over the bridge and continued along the north bank to Grein where we had a beer and wandered round the town. Mick and I cycled up to the castle on the hill above the town but it was just closing so we could not get in and returned to find the remainder of the group ensconced at another bar. We took the ferry to the south bank of the river and then cycled back to the hotel to get changed for dinner. Again we had a nice traditional Austrian meal in the hotel. The Garmin gave a distance of 43.1 miles, 510 ft of ascent and 637 ft of descent for the day's ride.

 Friday 8th September

In the morning we breakfasted in the hotel and then set off at about 9:15 following the south bank back to the ferry landing for another photo op then continued on the cycle path.Cycle path with Grein on the opposite bank As this was the shortest ride of the week, the pace was fairly gentle until Sue decided she had to stretch her legs and zoomed off. We were on the shady side of the river but had a good view of the pretty villages on the other side as we went past. As we passed the Strudenau narrows the water flow became more turbulent in the narrower channel. Before we got to the dam at Persenbeug we stopped at a cyclist's cafe where we had coffee and strudel - the prices were amazing - €1.60 for a large piece of strudel with cream and ice cream, although it took a while to get served. On the path again we diverted into Ybbs where some went into the Fahradder Musem and the rest of us walked around the town in the warm sunshine. Fahrrader Museum, YbbsAfter meeting up again the path followed the main road out of the the town for a bit before returning to the riverside. We stopped for a photo shoot beside the river opposite Marbach then continued onto Pochlarn. As it was early, I suggested we cycle into the town to find a bar/cafe rather than carry on the riverside path. In the middle of the town we duly found one and stopped for a beer and slice of pizza.

We continued on the path beside the Danube to Melk where many cruise boats were moored and followed the path into the town. The Hotel Wachau was on the far side of town and we had to push our bikes up the main pedestrianised street then cycled up to the top of the hill and our hotel. The Garmin file gave a distance of 30.7 miles for the day's ride but the ascent values were corrupted.

After checking in and storing the bikes in the garage, we walked the 2km back into town to look for a suitable restaurant as our hotel restaurant looked very nice but expensive. We booked a table at the Hotel zur Post, another traditional Austrian hotel for 19:00 and had a beer at a cafe while we waited. The meal was very good and the wine flowed freely to give us enough energy for the walk back up the hill to our hotel. Whilst at the cafe, we took the opportunity to book tables for dinner for both evenings in Vienna, one that I had been to before and another close to the Ibis Styles we were booked in to.

Saturday 9th September

After a good breakfast at the hotel, we headed down the hill at 9:00 to visit the famous Bendedictine Abbey in the town before most of the tourists arrived - we just about made that. After the standard tour through the abbey and a quick look at the gardens we headed on our way at 10:50 as terrain was more rolling than on previous days. The path followed a tributary at first and then we had to climb up to a ramp to the main road bridge to cross the river to the north bank - an 18% gradient is not easy on a loaded bike. Once across the river the path ran beside the main road for a short section before crossing over and following alternately quiet roads and cycle paths through the vineyards of the Wachau. We stopped in the first town, Aggsbach Markt, where they were setting up for a festival that evening at a roadside cafe for a quick coffee.

As it was the weekend, the paths were very busy with local cyclists - some whizzing past at high speed. The vineyards started properly at Willendorf and we passed through the many wine villages on the way. As the roads were further away from the river, there were many ups and downs, most gentle. When we got to Spitz, a small town, there were lots of cafes full of cyclists eating lunch, although tempting the consensus was to push on to about half distance before stopping. When we got to Weissenkirchen the only likely cafe was packed, so we carried on to the end of the Wachau at Durnstein. We cycled up the hill to the town and pushed our bikes through the pedestrianised main street as a wedding party walked in the other direction. As this is a tourist hotspot, the cafes were all too expensive for lunch, but on the outskirts of the town we saw a suitable cyclists cafe, Radler Treff, and stopped there for lunch - very good and reasonable prices too. 

Back on the road, the route ran through the old cobbled streets of Stein an Der Donau before taking the cycle path beside the main road through Krems until turning onto the paths running beside the Krems River then once again up a ramp to the main road bridge crossing the Danube to the south bank. Stein an der DonauThe path followed a big loop to get back on the Danube path whence the path stuck close to the river until the turn off for Traismauer. We stopped at this point to check out the restaurant there as I was not sure whether the hotel we were staying at still served evening meals - the restaurant here was fine, just about 2 miles from where we were staying. We followed the path into the town and checked into the Gasthof zum Schwan. The Garmin gave a distance of 36.8 miles, 727 ft of ascent and 862 ft of descent for the day's ride. The hotel no longer had a restaurant so we checked out an adjacent hotel that did rather than face the 4 mile return trip to the restaurant by the river. We got a table no problem, but told to get there early, so we turned up at 6:30 and sat at a table in the garden. The owner was a bit pushy with the menu but the food was local specialties and good value.Evening meal in Traismauer

 Sunday 10th September

After breakfast in the hotel we checked out and set off on the last day's ride at 9:00. The route was back the way we came to the Danube then we followed the path beside the river for about 10 miles before it detoured inland around a chemical works and farmland to the edge of Tulln. We turned into the main square in Tulln and sat at a cafe for a coffee break. We joined the path again at the statue of the Die Neibelungen and continued past the waterfront theatre with a floating stage and then made good speed on the flat, smooth and level cycle path. I was forging ahead on autopilot when I saw a restaurant beside the path at Greifenstein and stopped there and waited for the others as I thought it was probably the last opportunity for lunch before we got to the outskirts of Vienna. The menus, as always, were in German so we chose what we thought sounded good - it turned out well and the prices were reasonable.Lunch stop at Greifenstein

After lunch we continued and crossed to the north bank shortly after at the power station. Again the path ran close to the river as we passed Korneuberg and then crossed onto the Donauinsel [Danube Island]. This is a 13mile long island formed by the spoil from dredging the river that separates the Danube from the New Danube. We only cycled first 4 miles of it crossing over to the south bank again on the Steinitzsteg bridge, a former modern road bridge that is now a dedicated cycle bridge.Cycle bridge over Danube in Vienna Once on the south bank and in Vienna proper, the route followed a complicated set of turns under the road network to cross to the far bank of the Danube Canal that led us to Spittelau Railway Station which close to the hotel. We checked into the Ibis Styles and went down in the car lift with the bikes to the basement car park - bikes were free but cars cost €24 per day - not too many takers when we were there.

As it was fairly early, Mick and I rode into the centre of the town on our bikes - without the panniers it seemed much easier. The rest of the group also went into town on public transport and both groups saw most of the main sights. Mick and I returned to the hotel first, got changed and had a beer in a local bar when we saw the others returning. We joined them in the hotel bar for a drink before we all got ready to go out to the restaurant. This was a brewhouse close by and we had a good meal there. After the meal, Lin, David, Linda and I took the U-bahn to meet Len, who was joining the group for the last two days, at Wein Miite station and guide him to the hotel. The Garmin gave a distance of 43.7 miles, 363 ft of ascent and 467 ft of descent for the day's ride [although Mick and I did another 8 miles].

Monday 11th September

The next day we split into two groups to continue sightseeing, one group taking the hop-on hop-off tourist bus and the rest visited the Schonbrunn Palace then went into the centre for more sightseeing. It had started raining off and on about lunchtime so we returned to the hotel slightly early. In the evening we took the trams to the Ottakring Landhaus where we had booked a table for the ten of us. The food was fine but the service was a bit slow as there was another large party in.

Tuesday 12th September

In the morning after breakfast at the hotel we visited the Botanical Gardens and the Prater Amusement Park before heading to the airport for the return flight home.

Overall, we had a great time cycling down the Danube achieving our daily targets as well as enjoying the scenery, sunshine and particularly trying out the local dishes, cakes, beer and wine. After all we had to compensate for the calories burnt during the riding!! I wonder where we will go for the next tour.

Route Plans