The Alpe Adria Radweg was originally intended to be the main summer tour but the difficulties with bike hire and logistics for a large group ruled it out and we chose the Tour of the Ardennes instead. For the late summer tour, there was not enough interest in the hilly Walney to Whitby tour, so the consensus was for the alternative Kent/Sussex tour that at least on paper, looked easier, and simpler to organise.
During the Ardennes tour in June, I mentioned about riding the Alpe Adria on my own in preference to the UK tour. David and Vanessa asked to join me and we thought that this tour, in hopefully warmer climes, was feasible in a small group. So we set about researching and then booking the flights and hotels - all done in a few days. Salzburg is an expensive city, but David got us a very good hotel deal there with his BA Avios points. It was also difficult to find a hotel for the leg in the sparsely populated area between Villach and Carnia, and were fortunate to get the last three rooms available within about 20 miles of our planned overnight stop area. As David and Vanessa were wary of flying with their bikes, they arranged to hire bikes from Avelo in Salzburg. Despite the photos of modern disk braked touring bikes offered in the subsequent emails back and forth, the actuality when they collected the bikes was old but functional Vee braked touring bikes [I guess that David’s bike was about 20 years old!]
Day 1 - Salzburg [12 miles and flat]
It was an early 3am start from Basingstoke on Saturday 26th August, but an easy drive to Gatwick to park in the short term car park. It did not take long to unload my bike and wheel it across the road to departures where I bagged it up and joined the Bank Holiday crush at the check in queue. David and Vanessa headed for security when I realised I had left my bumbag in the car with my passport. Fortunately, David had not got to security so was able to retrieve my bag and I could check-in and take my bike to the oversize conveyor. When we arrived in Salzburg, David and Vanessa took a taxi to the bike shop, about 2 miles away, whilst I retrieved and rebuilt my bike. Once done, their location on WhatsApp was still showing at the bike hire shop so I loaded up and cycled across to meet them. As we had plenty time before check-in to the hotel, we followed a convoluted route in the warm sunshine to take in some of the sights, viewing the impressive Leopoldskron from across the lake then following the Almkanal to the park behind the Hohensalzburg Fortress and into the Aldstat [the old town] where we stopped in a square for coffee and cake. After, we continued through the Aldstat to Mozartplatz, Residenzplatz, and the Opera House, where we could hear the singing through the open windows, to the cycle path beside the river that took us close to the Fourside Hotel where we were staying.
Leopoldskron in background
It was still early and our rooms were not ready, so we dropped off the bags and cycled back towards the town centre beside the river. There was a festival market beside the river, that we had spotted on the way to the hotel, so we stopped at it and enjoyed a glass of local sparkling wine in the sunshine. Suitably relaxed, we rode back to the hotel and stored our bikes in the underground garage. We took a trolley bus from outside the hotel back into the Aldstadt for more sightseeing. Having selected an outdoor restaurant in a square, we had just sat down when sudden gusts of wind sent tables, parasols and glasses flying so we opted to eat indoors in the adjacent Italian restaurant, Osteria Patricio Fellini instead – great food washed down with lovely wines [recommended if you are over that way]. After the meal, light rain had started as we made our way back to the hotel again by trolley bus.
Day 2 - Salzburg to St Johann im Pongau [43 miles and 590m ascent]
In the morning, the breakfast room was packed with coachloads of Asian tourists who tried very hard to eat everything in the impressive breakfast buffet. But the staff were up to the challenge, so there was more than plenty for us as it quietened down after the tourists left. We set off from the hotel at about 9am and rode along the cycle path beside the River Salzach to the Mirabell Palace and Gardens, but decided we would leave a visit there until we returned at the end of the tour. After the Aldstadt, we diverted off from the Taurenradweg to pick up the cycle path along Hellbrunner Allee that is lined with palaces and the Sound of Music Pavilion then into Hellbrunner Park, past the zoo there though we could not see the Hellbrunn Palace from the path. After some gravel tracks, we picked up the Alpe Adria cycle path beside the river and rode to Hallein where we diverted through the Aldstadt and stopped for coffee and strudel beside a fountain in the square.
Gollinger Wasserfall
After this, the cycle path left the riverside and wended its way to Golling where we rode up the hill to visit the Wasserfall [€5 entry fee]. It was a bit of a hike on a rocky path to the waterfall, but worth seeing. The cycle path then crossed the river into the town and then ran beside the road up to Pass Leug, a steady climb at about 10% then a shorter steeper climb over the road tunnel to the Salzsachklamm gorge. We parked up and entered the gorge [€5 entry fee] and climbed down the steep path and steps into the gorge for the spectacular views of the river rushing through the narrow steep sided gorge. The steep walk back up seemed easier than the descent and we were soon back at the bikes. We rode along the main B159 road for the next 8 miles as it passed through a steep sided valley – no cycle lane, but also no lorries as it was a Sunday. At Hohenwerfen Castle perched high above the surrounding land, we turned off into the town of Werfen and spotted a traditional festival going on in a square off the road. We joined the throng of people at the tables and enjoyed a local weissbier whilst watching the dancing and listening to the oompah band. We rather stood out in our lycra amongst the locals, dressed in lederhosen and traditional dirndls, though no—one seemed to mind.
Werfen Festival
We returned to the cycle path that generally was on gravel tracks beside the river, though we had to push our bikes on a narrow bridge beside the railway tracks over the river at Bischofshofen. When we got to St Johann im Pongau, it was inevitably a steep climb up to our hotel, the Alpenland. This was a large traditional Austrian sportshotel with steep pitched roofs and flower decked balconies. We parked our bikes in the dedicated bike/ski store room in the underground garage. After unpacking, we headed for the pool but skipped the sauna and gym then relaxed in the bar with a welcome glass of wine. We had a lovely meal in the hotel restaurant [we were on a dinner, bed and breakfast booking - very good value] where they had an autonomous robot that fetched the food for each table and took away the plates afterwards – great hotel and food
Day 3 - St Johann im Pongau to Obervellach [36 miles and 883m ascent]
In the morning we enjoyed an extensive buffet breakfast and checked out. It had rained heavily all night and it did not relent as we set off back down towards the river. In view of the conditions, we reluctantly decided we would not visit the Liechtensteinklamm Gorge and took the Alpe Adria cyclepath beside the river. The rain did not ease and the thunder was fairly constant though we could not see the lightning due to the low clouds. At Schwarzach the route followed a quiet road as it climbed steeply up to a lake with sections at 16%. The lake was a mere puddle in the bottom of a deep man-made reservoir. This road continued high up the valley side before joining a cycle path beside the main road and crossed the Gasteiner Ache on a bridge to the relatively short Gigerachtunnel cycle tunnel and then into the main 1.5km long Klamm tunnel where the cycle path runs beside the road in its own lane, separated by a concrete barrier – the traffic noise is horrendous, but at least it was dry!
Klamm Tunnel
Just after we left the tunnel, we saw a café beside the road and stopped there with some other cyclists for a coffee. After wringing out our sodden gloves, we set off again on the cycle path beside the road to Bad Hofgastein where we left the main road and went into the town looking for somewhere for lunch and finally spotted Kraut & Ruben, a vegetarian restaurant. We had a good lunch and the owners were fairly relaxed about the large pools of water we dripped over the floor. When we left it was raining harder and a couple of passing cyclists told us the Alpe Adria was closed up ahead due to flooding and they were looking for a higher route. We carried on and met them again where the road was closed off and completely flooded where the river about 200m away had burst its banks. There was a golf course adjacent to the road on slightly higher ground so we set off across it to see if we could skirt the flooded section - but no luck, so we waded through the calf deep water, to the road again and rode through the flood to the barrier – the Germans then followed us. Just further on there was a bridge over the river that was in full spate with fast flowing brown water – Vanessa was concerned that the bridge was about to be swept away!
Bad Gastein Wasserfall in spate
The rain had eased a bit as we started up the long steep climb into Bad Gastein, that is famous for it’s upmarket hotels that are perched on the sides of the narrow steep side gorge where the river is funnelled through. The gradient up to the town averages about 10% but with ramps of up to 22% - inevitably we had to push the bikes up some of it. As we turned a corner, we could see the normally picturesque waterfall where the river runs through the town was a fierce torrent of brown water and spray – normally it is similar to the Gollinger Wasserfall we visited earlier. After a photo stop, we continued climbing into the centre of the town and the bridge over the river where the higher waterfall was equally impressive and scary. It was still raining as we continued climbing through and out of the town. Outside the town, the cycle path beside the river was predictably closed due to the floods, so we carried on along the main road getting soaked by the water thrown up by passing traffic and trying to avoid the boulders being flung across the road from the mountain torrents running down the cliffs beside the road. We reached Bockstein just in time for the hourly Tauern motorail train through the Alps. Again, we left a trail of water through the carriage as we went. When we got off the train at Mallintz on the other side of the Alps, the rain had just about stopped. There as a 500m descent at an average of about 8%, max 28%, as we rode down through the hairpin bends to Obervellach and our overnight stop at the Landhotel Pacher. The road was too wet and a bit bumpy to ride at maximum speed, but it was still good fun. We put our bikes away in the garage, checked in and dried out. Again, we were on a dinner, bed and breakfast deal, so did not venture outside and enjoyed the relaxing meal in the hotel restaurant. A Canadian lady staying at the hotel stopped to chat – she was walking the Alpe Adria footpath over 6 weeks and we commiserated over the weather – she found the paths through the gorges closed and had to take a bus.
Day 4 - Obervellach to Villach [23 miles and 240m ascent]
After breakfast, it was overcast but dry as we set off, but it started to rain again after about 6 miles on as we rode through the Alpine meadows. We stopped for coffee at Mollbrucke and when we left the café, the rain became steadily heavier. Entering Spittal an der Drau, we rode through the traffic into the centre and found a kebab/pizza place where we stopped for lunch – two huge pizzas shared between the three of us. We were wet and cold, and looking out, it was raining much harder, so we opted to ride to the station and take the train to our overnight stop in Villach. The rain had all but stopped as we arrived at our hotel, the Goldenes Lamm, locked the bikes in the garage and then, after cleaning up and drying out, we strolled around the town centre. The restaurant connected to the hotel was fully booked for that evening, but the receptionist recommended a nearby restaurant. We stopped in a café bar for a glass of wine before going to the trendy Restaurant Charles where we enjoyed a good meal.
It's a bit damp
Day 5 - Villach to San Giorgio [50 miles and 516m ascent]
In the morning after another good breakfast, it was dry but overcast as we set off. Due to road works, we diverted to the next bridge down the river to pick up the cycle path - this was closed off because of the flood risk, so we carried on along the main road for a section, missing out crossing the river on the interesting dedicated cycle bridge. The cycle path followed the banks of the River Gail upstream to Erlendorf where it left the river and started the 12 mile long climb up the valley of the River Fella. This was on the line of a former railway that had to be abandoned due to frequent landslips blocking the line. The gradient averaged about 3%, so not difficult going. At the Italian border post, we stopped at a café there for coffee.
Setting off again, the path climbed steeply at a signed 15%, as it zigzagged up the hill and through the woods with lovely views of the Julian Alps across the steep sided valley. The tarmac cycle path, more like a cycle version of the M25 with its white lines, continued through Tarvisio without seeing much of the town, to the top of the climb at Camporosso. My rear wheel had been making clicking sounds for some time on the climb and was now very noisy, so stopped to check. With the wheel off, it was hard to spin the wheel and it sounded as if the bearings were shot. A quick search on Google revealed a bike shop within 400m that closed in about 45 minutes – amazing! At the bike shop, the owner injected some spray oil and the wheel seemed to spin OK although a bit grumbly – he could not do more as it is an Italian hub with sealed bearings that even if he had spares to hand needed a special tools for removal and replacement. I refitted the wheel as he left for lunch, but it was still making the same noises as we set off again, so decided just to ignore it.
There now followed the most scenic section of the tour down the Fella valley with impressive views of the towering mountains and the steep sided valley as the roads, train tracks and the dedicated cycle path threaded through it in many tunnels and across bridges. When we reached Pontebba, we stopped for lunch at a café in the small square. We passed through countless tunnels, the longer ones lit and the shorter ones unlit and across old railway bridges over the river and it’s tributaries. We obviously stopped for photos, but there was so much to admire that we could not record everything. This section of the route was busy with many groups of touring cyclists, much more than on the other parts of the route – we counted one group of 31 cycle touring together at one point. At Chiusaforte, there is a café in the old railway station that was absolutely heaving with cyclists and no free tables, so we carried on downhill.
Fella cycleway
Fella cycleway bridge
At Resuitta we called Claudio, the owner of our next hotel in San Giorgio down a side valley off the Fella, and he came to take us and our bikes to the hotel – the road was closed to cyclists after a landslip last winter and restricted to one lane over about a 2 mile length that is traffic light controlled – green for 30 seconds each way every 20 minutes with a strict minimum speed limit of 30kph and closed to bikes. We settled into the hotel and then David and I went for a walk up to the neighbouring village and then crossed the river on a suspension bridge and walked along the trail for a bit – spectacular scenery. We enjoyed a glass of wine whilst waiting for Claudio to cook our evening meal, delayed slightly as he had to collect another group of German cyclists – they like 95% of the cyclists we saw on the route, were on e-bikes so they had to leave their bikes at Resia overnight, just carrying their batteries for charging.
Day 6 - San Giorgio to Udine [42 miles and 381m ascent]
In the morning after a more traditional light Italian breakfast, Claudio ferried us and our bikes back to Resiutta. David commented as he wheeled my bike to the car that it was difficult to push. A check with the wheel off indicated it was all but seized but when refitted and cycled around, it freed off and the clicking stopped – on returning home, I found the drive side sealed bearing was at fault caused by a poor non-labrynth seal on the axle and the torrential rain or riding through the floods having washed the grease out of the bearing.
Gemona del Friuli in background
We rode along the last bit of the dedicated cycle path through more tunnels to Moggio Udinese. Here the route then heads on a busy road beside the river to Carnia. Instead, we crossed the river and rode along an old military road cut into the cliffs – very scenic. We then joined the main road and recrossed the river into Carnia and continued to Venzone, using a combination of main road and back roads. Venzone was almost entirely destroyed by the 1976 Friuli earthquake and the historic town centre was rebuilt in its original style from numerous pieces of rubble in the next years. We stopped at a café in the central square enjoying the warm sunshine and then cycled around the town to admire the architecture before continuing. From there, the Alpe Adria mainly followed quiet roads through the flattish countryside to Ospedalatto. I thought Gemona del Friuli might be worth seeing so we diverted to have a look – this involved the only steep climb of the day as it is perched on a hill high over the valley – though it was a nice downhill run back to the plain. We stopped for a beer at San Floreano with other cyclists before continuing to Buja where we bought supplies for a picnic lunch at a large Eurospar. The quiet roads continued to Tricesimo where the area became more built up and there were more cycle paths as the route threaded its way around the outskirts and into the centre of Udine to our hotel, the Ambassador Palace. After locking our bikes in the dedicated basement bike store and settling in, we walked into the historic centre to take in the sights. After a refreshing glass of wine beside the Piazza del Liberta and Loggia del Lionello, we walked back to the hotel. Before dinner we sat on the terrace in the last of the warm sunshine before a good meal in the hotel restaurant.
Loggia del Lionello, Udine
Day 7 - Udine to Salzburg by train
It was an early start next morning as we skipped breakfast to ride to the station for the 7:14 Micotra train to Villach with its dedicated bike carriage - this turned out to be a goods wagon. There were many cyclists waiting to board so it was a bit of scramble as each bike had to be lifted up to the carriage threshold – obviously harder for those on heavy e-bikes. The train journey to Villach followed our cycle route through the Fella valley, though there was less to see as there were many long tunnel sections. It was apparent that cyclists were taking the train up the Fella valley and cycling back downhill along this spectacular cycleway - definitely worth doing if you visit this area.
At Villach, we boarded the OBB Cityjet service bound for Dussledorf that had a smaller dedicated compartment for bikes. The train again followed our outward route, but this time we got to see more of the Alps in the sunshine. We arrived on time at 11:48 in Salzburg and cycled to our hotel where our rooms were ready so were able to offload the bags. We then cycled to the Mirabell Palace to walk around and admire the Palace Gardens. After a beer and pretzel there, we cycled to the bike hire shop to return the bikes. We regrouped back at the hotel then took the bus to the Aldtstat for more sightseeing in the sunshine. We stopped at Café Thomaselli for coffee and gateau whilst listening to the string quartet playing on the stage outside – it was the Salzburg Festival whilst we were there. We walked around the Aldstat admiring the buildings, Mozart's statutes and fountains before returning to the same Italian restaurant as the first night for another nice meal whilst listening to the music in the square outside.
Fountain, Aldstat, Salzburg
The next morning, we skipped breakfast with David and Vanessa taking the bus to the airport whilst I rode there. I was able to pack my bike up fairly quickly, get checked in and take it to the oversize conveyor. The flight home was boarded promptly but it was delayed due to air traffic control restrictions and we landed back at Gatwick about 30 minutes late. Once the bike was retrieved, we walked to the car and headed home.
An excellent tour despite the weather on a couple of days.