As a result of the date change for the Danube trip, Mick and I were to cycle the ViaRhona from Lyon to the Mediterranean Sea on the original Danube dates in June. Unfortunately, Mick had to pull out, but Brian stepped in to take his place.
The viaRhona is a new Eurovelo route that opened in 2016 although with a few incomplete sections. Early on the 20th June, Brian and I drove to Gatwick, with our bikes and took an Easyjet flight to Lyon. Once we arrived we sorted out the bikes, reinflated the tyres that the baggage handlers at Gatwick had deflated and headed into Lyon on the cycle route from the airport. I had only gone a couple of miles before I had a puncture, but easily fixed. We were sharing a studio apartment in an aparthotel, just outside the centre. After settling in we did some sightseeing around the Old Town by bike - the city has an extensive network of bike lanes, so that we could largely avoid the traffic.
Next day we loaded up the bikes and cycled to the train station where we took a train to Vienne as there is no cycle route south out of Lyon to avoid cycling on the busy main roads. After a look around the town, we headed south on the cycle paths beside the Rhone. The weather was scorching hot - the temperature averaged 36C that first day. The route was pan flat so it was easy going though with the heat we were continually searching for places to get a drink, mostly without success as the area around the route is surprisingly sparsely populated. At around mid-day we started diverting off the route to look for somewhere that we could get some lunch and after a while settled on a cafe in Serriere. Further on we were able to get further refreshment at a supermarket cafe opposite Crozes Hermitage. From there it was a short ride to our overnight stop in a nice hotel in Tournon. In the evening we walked into town where there was a festival and the restaurants were all full, so we ended up at a McDonald's! That first day on the route proper we rode 49 miles from Vienne but with only 130m of ascent.
In the morning we crossed to the east bank of the Rhone and passed beside many of the famous vineyards and then stopping in Valence for some sightseeing and refreshments. We crossed onto the west bank again at Marboule and sought out a supermarket for lunch. For most of the afternoon the temperatures hovered around 40C. The route crossed to the east bank again shortly after and then headed inland away from the river to our overnight stop in Montelimar in another aparthotel - the slight climb made harder in the hot weather. We had booked a 2 bedroom apartment, but the receptionist had given this to a couple who had arrived just in front of us, although this was sorted out fairly quickly. We cycled into the town centre and picked up some food to have back at the apartment.
The next day was a shorter ride to Orange. It was a bit cooler in the morning with the temperatures staying between 25C and 30C as we followed the Rhone south. We stopped at a cafe in Lapalud for lunch. In the afternoon the temperature stayed above 40C with the Garmin recording a maximum of 47C. We continued on to our hotel in Orange. It was OK but a bit down at heel - strange how the hotels vary so much in France. Only 42 miles and 80m ascent today. Once settled in we explored the town and visited the vast ancient Roman theatre there.
In the morning after breakfast, we hit the road again this time heading for Arles. We had a quick look around Roquemar looking for sustenance before crossing over to visit Avignon for a bit of sightseeing and lunch. In the afternoon we had a look around Beuacaire and Tarascon then carried on to our overnight stop in the Ibis at Arles. In the evening I walked into town for a bit of sightseeing before eating in the hotel that evening. The temperatures were marginally cooler than the previous day, only peaking at 44C. We rode 52 miles with 120m ascent.
Next day after breakfast we left the river and headed across the Camargue towards Montpelier. We had the insect repellent to hand as we crossed over the salt marsh and along the canal path. Strangely, there was not much to see although we saw storks nesting on electricity poles and towers and egrets on the water. When we cycling along the canal we saw the famous black bulls being rounded up - for the benefit of a coach load of tourists, so we joined the throng. Near the end of the canal it passes through Aigues Mort where we stopped for lunch and some sightseeing - a very good lunch and an interesting place. The canal meets the Mediterranean Sea at Grand Roi with the route following the coast and then inland to Montpelier where we were staying at another Ibis on the outskirts. Although the route is close to the coast, you could not see much of the beaches because of the houses and hotels that line the beaches. The traffic was very busy along this stretch of coast. We cycled 53 miles that day with the temperature slightly cooler near the coast.
In the morning we cycled into the centre of Montpelier and caught the train to Sete further along the coast that I had visited previously when cycling the Canal du Midi. After a quick look around we cycled back along the coast before turning inland towards the airport for our flight back. There was not much to see along the route - it was frankly boring and just filling in the time before our return flight from Montpelier airport. It had been much cooler with the temperature in the high 20's all day and becoming slightly overcast - 38 miles for the day. Overall, although there were some lovely cycle paths on the route and it passed through some interesting towns, the cycling was disappointing - too flat and not enough interest between the towns.