When the covid restrictions were finally lifted, we updated the plans for the Black Forest and Alsace tour. The original plan was based on ten people taking our own bikes in two cars with some of the group travelling by plane to the start of the tour in Strasbourg. However, as a result of Brexit, the customs rules posed a risk that the unaccompanied bikes could be subject to import duties at the border, so instead we opted to hire bikes and travel by plane to the tour. Whilst we would have preferred to use our own bikes, the hassle of flying with bikes was too much for most and the two who normally ride ebikes could not take theirs so we all opted to hire e-bikes for this tour. The bikes, new Kalkhoff Image 3B city bikes with Bosch Active line Plus motors with 500Wh batteries and 7 speed Nexus hub gears were hired from Freiburgbikes that are based at the Radstation beside the main railway station in Freiburg. Rudi the manager was very helpful when we booked the bikes and also when we collected and returned the bikes. The bikes were heavy at 28kg + about 10kg for panniers, charger and kit.

Some of the original group were unable to meet the dates or their circumstances had changed, so the group now comprised David, SueC, SueP, Carol, Ray, Mick and Alistair. Mick had some long-term issues with his back and this worsened close to the departure date and he was unable to ride on the tour. However, he did fly out and stay with us for the first two days before flying home.

The tour largely followed four cycle routes – The Grune Strasse from Colmar to Titisee, The Schwarzwald Panoramic Radweg from Titisee to Freudenstadt, the Kinzigtal from Freudenstadt to Offenburg and the Alsace Wine Route from Strasbourg to Colmar. The route was on a combination of dedicated cycle paths, quiet roads and forest gravel tracks with a total distance of 274 miles and 3905m ascent/descent.Actual route [but start and finish in Freiburg not Strasbourg]

June 13 - Freiburg

We flew from Gatwick to Basel on Easyjet and then took two taxis to our hotel, the Premier Inn, Freiburg. We had planned to use the direct shuttle bus from the airport but the timings meant a two hour wait for the bus and felt we could better use the time enjoying ourselves and David negotiated a good deal with the taxis.  After checking into the hotel, we walked to the Aldstat, the old part of town, for some sightseeing followed by beer and sausages at Biergarten Brauerei Feierling.Biergarten Brauerei Feierling, Freiburg

June 14 – Freiburg to Hinterzarten - 20 miles and 958m ascent

After breakfast, we went by tram for more sightseeing in the town, taking the funicular railway up the hill that overlooks the town where some of us climbed up the 200 steps to the top of the observation tower for a panoramic view over the town and the surrounding Black Forest. On the way back to the hotel, we picked up the bikes and rode them to our hotel, packed our panniers and checked out.  It was already a steady 33C under the clear blue skies as we set off on the cycle route beside the river Dreisam, through the town and into the countryside observing the scantily clad sun-worshippers as we passed by.

Mick had taken the train and we met up with him for lunch at a cafe opposite Kirchzarten train station. The main group then took the train to our overnight stop at Hinterzarten, all making good use of the €9 ticket giving unlimited travel on trains, busses and trams valid during the whole of June. The busy main road through the Hollental [Hells Valley], a steep sided gorge that runs between the two towns is not suitable for cycling.

Meanwhile, David and I continued along the cycle path beside the main road to Falkensteig before taking the Grune Strasse that climbs steeply up the valley sides. This is a relentless climb for 5 miles on gravel tracks through the forest averaging 10% gradient .  It is so heavily wooded that we could not see much else but trees!  

Once at the top, the surface changed to tarmac as we rode downhill past the ski stations. At Alpersbach the road was closed with a barrier, even for cyclists, so we diverted down a track that petered out in a field and then had to push the bikes up the slope to get back on the road [walk mode could not cope]. From there it was a nice easy run down to our hotel, the Schwarzwaldhof, in Hinterzarten where we met up with the others.

The ebikes performed well, though they were skittish on the gravel with their upright riding position and with loaded panniers at the rear. Neither David nor I normally ride ebikes, so we rode in Eco mode until a little way into the steep climb, then Tour mode and then Sport mode as the climb went on – we doubt we would have made it on our usual bikes without lots of stops along the way.

Ray, Mick and the ladies meanwhile were enjoying a drink or two in the sun after checking in to the hotel. In the evening, as our hotel’s restaurant was closed, we dined at another hotel where they had a reciprocal arrangement.

June 15 – Hinterzarten to Sankt Georgen - 49 miles and 659m ascent

After breakfast we headed off on the route to Titisee where we paused for a little at this picturesque tourist hotspot beside the lake. We needed plenty of sunscreen as the temperature was climbing steadily on another clear sunny day with little breeze. Before leaving Neustadt, we stopped at an Aldi for some ice cream to cool us down before the start of the climb on the SPR through the woods and out into the open countryside. Because it was so hot, we opted to take a slight short cut that saved a couple of miles but involved a steeper climb of 10% average, max 16.5% for 1.5 miles up to the ski-lift at Schwarzenbach at 1040m elevation before the long gradual descent on the Lang Allee, an arrow straight gravel track descending for 6 miles through the forest. Lang AlleeAt the end of the track, we noticed that one of Ray’s panniers was hanging away from the rack –a bolt attaching the pannier to its frame had come out. We bodged it up with some bungee cord and continued.  The SPR then ran around the Kimbergsee and through more forest on gravel tracks before picking up quiet roads into Braunlingen – overall more than 10 miles of steady descent. In Braunlingen, we stopped at an unusual water feature opposite the town museum.Braunlingen

We then diverted off the SPR to Donaueschingen where we visited the Donauquelle, the spring that is the source of the great River Danube. We stopped at a café for refreshments and a backerei for a sandwich whilst trying to stay out of the fierce sun, the temperature now had risen to 38C and there was little shade to be found. From there it was fairly flat on the SPR beside the river and railway line to the old town of Villingen where we cycled through the centre and stopped for a sorbet at café beside the Reittor at the western entrance through the town walls.  The route followed cycle paths and quiet roads beside the river Brigach until it joined the cycle path beside the road to Sankt Georgen. The last section from the main road into the town centre and our hotel, the Kammerer, was a steep climb, but no problem on the ebikes. The hotel owners welcomed us and stored the bikes in the garage. We had a lovely meal in the evening in the hotel sitting outside on the balcony.

June 16 – Sankt Georgen to Freudenstadt - 39 miles and 838m ascent

After breakfast, the hotel owner was able to source a suitable replacement bolt for Ray’s panniers from a friend who lived adjacent, that we duly fitted. It was Corpus Christi and a public holiday in Baden Wurttemberg, so most businesses, supermarkets and shops were closed. The first part retraced our route to Peterzell to pick up the SPR again. The route passed through the rolling countryside on quiet roads and tracks with small pretty villages dotted about. At the top of the hills there were extensive views of the forest and hills in the distance.

When we passed through Sulgen we spotted Kalle’s café that was open and stopped there for refreshments and chatted to other cyclists - one spoke good English. Shortly after the cafe we passed through the village of Aichhalden where we just saw the end of a procession from the church to the sports hall celebrating Corpus Christi. It was marginally cooler today with afternoon temperatures 33-36C. When we got to Loßburg, the only place that seemed to be open was a Turkish café, so we stopped there for lunch. There was some confusion with the order and David and Sue each had a large pizza instead of one to share.Forest track on Kinzigtal

Once we started off again the route climbed steadily for the next three miles or so through the forest on gravel tracks that were quite busy with walkers and cyclists. The forest continued up to the edge of Freudenstadt where the road descended steeply. We stayed at the Hotel das Palmenwald Schwarzwaldhof, a large impressive building.Freudenstadt Hotel Whilst some took advantage of the pool and spa, I walked into town to see what restaurants might be open on the holiday.  There were a couple of Italian restaurants and the brewery restaurant looked closed. After a chat about this over a beer and with some having pizzas at lunchtime the Italian options were not popular, we opted to eat in the hotel restaurant where we could only get a booking for 7pm. With plenty time before our table was available, we strolled into town where it was much quieter than earlier. The service and food in the hotel were good but very slow and we did not finish our meal until 10pm.

June 17 – Freudenstadt to Offenburg - 53 miles and 425m ascent [1010m descent]

After breakfast we set off and retraced our inbound route to Loßburg. At the start of the forest on the edge of town, we met a group of about 30 German cyclists all on touring ebikes with their panniers on the same route.  After Loßburg we took the Kinzigtal trail through the deep forest on gravel tracks, meeting the German group again as we finally descended steeply to Alpirsbach where we stopped for a coffee.  The route then ran on cycle paths beside the road. We diverted into the Aldstat in Schiltach where we stopped for photos, unfortunately a spoilt by trucks unloading. Continuing on, we stopped for water when we could find any shade from the hot sun, again about 38C.Schiltach

We stopped in the centre of Wolfach, looking for a café or bakery, but found nothing suitable. The road was very busy with traffic diverted from the main road as the tunnel bypassing the village was closed. We saw there was a supermarket on the edge of town so we headed there to stock up on something for lunch. The hardest thing was to find some shade to eat it as we continued on the route – we eventually found a bench under a tree at the edge of Hausach, although a few hundred metres on we would have been spoilt for choice!Wolfach

Further on we diverted into the centre of the pretty town of Haslach where the ladies stopped for ice cream and the gents for coffee/tea and cake. After this the valley widens out and the cycle paths ran beside fields, many growing maize. The route passed through the towns of Steinach, Biberach and Gegenbach where we stopped to admire the architecture. The approach to Ortenberg was dominated by the castle on top of the hill beside the route, the Schloss Ortenberg, now a youth hostel.  Shortly afterwards we entered the outskirts of Offenburg and made our way into the centre to our overnight stop at the Ibis Styles. There was a bit of confusion at first as they said we did not have a booking and they had no availability. However, it was just a misunderstanding, though we were not impressed by the hotel, its staff or the facilities that were poor in comparison the other Ibis group hotels we have stayed in on tours. We ate at an Asian restaurant in the evening.Offenburg

June 18 – Offenburg to Obernai via Strasbourg – 41 miles, 207m ascent

After breakfast we set off on the route that ran beside the river, frequently on raised banks above the flood plain. We saw a few storks feeding and flying as we cycled along. At Kehl we crossed the Rhine on the dedicated cycle bridge and into France.

Strasbourg is a cycle friendly city with many dedicated cycle paths and lanes, though you do need to know where you are going. Our convoluted route through the city picked up all the popular tourist areas, some of which were so busy we had to walk with our bikes. It was very hot with the temperature showing at 41C. Petite France, StrasbourgWe stopped for a coffee in Petite France and then criss-crossed the canals and walked through the Barrage Vauban to pick up the cycle path that ran beside the Canal de la Bruche out of town.  It was a nice smooth and level cycle path and the ladies were taking turns at pace setting so zoomed along only stopping for junctions and to take photos of the young storks on their nests. Young storks on their nest beside the Canal BrucheWe turned onto the Alsace Wine route at Avolsheim. After we had passed through Molsheim the fields gave way to vineyards and although the route had been almost completely flat up until now a steep hill, 18%, rose up in front of us with a downhill run to Rosheim where we toured around the centre.  The cycle path continued climbing slightly as we approached Obernai. We rode through the middle of the town to our hotel Les Jardins d’Aldroic, a very nice hotel in a quiet neighbourhood. Once checked in, David and Sue were straight in the pool then we sat around in the shade enjoying a beer – we even had a quick game of table tennis with the temperature still at 40C. The hotel did not have a restaurant but had booked us into one in the town centre where we enjoyed a nice meal.

June 19 – Obernai to Colmar – 43 miles and 616m ascent

After an enjoyable breakfast we set off for Colmar on what was to be the hottest day, by mid-morning it was 40C and peaked at 46C in the afternoon. With the increase in temperature, the wind picked up, unfortunately from the south and a headwind. Just as we came to the town of Gertwiller there was a market all along the street mainly selling second-hand stuff, though if we had thought of it we could have picked up something for lunch. We had to walk our bikes through the throng before turning off onto the cycle path.

The route passes through all the picture-perfect Alsace wine villages with their traditional half-timbered houses and through the many vineyards. The best vineyards need good drainage so are set in the foothills of the Vosges Mountains that meant it was climb and descend for most of the day. As it was France and a Sunday, nothing seemed to be open when we were looking for refreshments. We detoured into Lambach-la-Ville but could find nothing open so were forced to carry on. At Scherwiller we spotted a flower shop open that sold coffee and soft drinks so we stopped there, moving the chairs into the shade – the other shops were all closed. As we cycled through Bergheim, we saw a restaurant open but it was full so we carried on.

After this, the route heads further up into the Vosges and when we got to Ribeauville, one of the main wine towns, at last there were places open and we stopped there for a Panoche and sandwich.  Just after Hunawhir there was a long climb at 15% then a long downhill again back to the Rhine Plain and Colmar our destination for the night. The constant headwind had sapped the batteries and we were glad to navigate through busy Colmar to our hotel – except when we went to check-in it was the wrong hotel so we had a quick tour of the centre of Colmar to ride to the correct one, the Colmar hotel close to the main station. They had an underground garage for our bikes, our rooms were nice with free drinks in the fridge and even a Nespresso machine. In the evening we walked into the old part of Colmar for our meal at a French restaurant.Colmar

June 20 – Colmar to Freiburg - 29 miles and 202m ascent

It was an early breakfast for us as we were aiming to be back in Freiburg by 11:30 to hand the bikes back before the shop closed for lunch at 12:00. It was a fairly easy ride to Neuf Brisach where we stopped to view the impressive town wall fortifications then crossed over the Rhine back into Germany. We had chosen the shortest route back rather than the signed cycle route but this climbed over a hill through the vineyards to save us a couple of miles. The route then ran through the forest on a tarmac cycle path beside the road to the edge of Freiburg where it was largely dedicated cycle paths and quiet roads back to the Radstation. Rudi was there to handover the bikes and we had enough time to have a coffee at an interesting coffee shop before catching the airport bus.

David will be compiling a video of the trip to show at our post trip get-together.

 

 

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